Unremovable stains or the nature of the stain.
In instances where the colour or dye has been removed by substances such as bleach, benzoyl peroxide, other medications, harsh cleaning products and other reactive products since the colour/dye was taken out.
Stains that have dyed the fibres by colourings, i.e.certain food colourings, curries ,sauces, woodstains etc. this type of stain can be improved in certain circumstances but unfortunately cannot be guaranteed.
The length of time 
the stain has been in the fibres has a great significence in the chances of removal. The longer its left , the more difficult it is to remove. Last but not least, and the most imortant "because it could be avoided" is what you the home owner has tried to remove it with. Most spotters, carpet cleaning solutions, home remedies and under the kitchen sink solutions ARE NOT THE ANSWER. Quite often these products will bleach and set the stain. Have you tried these amazing products? You see advertised, that remove everything under the sun. If only!!! If so, did the stain disappear, or is their a paler patch in that area. Yes it is bleached, it is not cleaner. Does that area keep getting dirtier than the rest of the carpet? Thats because of the soil attracting properties of these products. A few tips here, but no guarantees.
A quick reference guide to removing stains.
THE 6 STEPS TO REMOVING SPOTS
1. Catch it while it's fresh, when chances of removal are 75% better. Don't iron or hot-air dry until the stain is gone. Heat will set most stains.
2. First blot up all the liquid and scrape up all the solids you can. On a large liquid spill you can use a wet/dry vac. Be careful not to spread the stain.
3. Test any chemical you intend to use in a hidden area to make sure it won't discolour or damage the surface.
4. Apply spotter and work from the outside of the stain in, to avoid spreading. Blot, don't scrub; strike with the flat face of a spotting brush if needed to help break up the stain.
5. Rinse chemical spotters out with water, blot the area dry and feather the edges. Brush or fluff up pile or nap.
6. On carpet and upholstery, put a thick pad of toweling over the spot, weight it down with books, and leave it there overnight to "wick up" any remaining moisture.
If you are unsuccessful in removing the stain after following this guide, keep the stain moist (remembering that drying and heat sets stains) and call a professional.
Water Based stains:
Alcoholic beverages, berries, blood, chocolate, excrement, food dyes, glue, ice cream, jelly, milk, mud, tea, soda, urine, vomit
(follow the 6 step directions on the left)
Oil Based Stains:
Tar, butter, cosmetics, crayons, grease, lipstick, shoe polish
(follow the 6 step directions on the left using an oil/grease spot remover)
Freezable Stains:
Candle wax, chewing gum
(freeze stains and shatter with a blunt object, then vacuum up the pieces before they soften)
Professional Stains:
Ink, paint, rust, urine
(need to be removed by a professional)
Stain protection.
Protecting your carpets and furnishings by applying a stain protector gives you some assurance that if an accidental does happen the chances of removal are far greater, it gives you as the owner the opportunity to absorb any spills you may have before they have chance
to penetrate the fibres, it gives the professional a far greater chance of removing stains.
It is not the answer to every thing, it does not mean that you can spill any thing on it and it will be fine, it does not guarantee to stop your fibres staining. As stated, it does give protection , and for that reason it is worth the expense of this service.
I never, ever try and upsell any products or services so if you require stain protection for any items simply let me know and we can discuss the treatment, and its benefits.
I can also also offer the service of fire retardents application, and anti-static treatments - this is normally applied to the commercial market.
Odour removal.
Eradicting odours needs to be tackled at the source, not quite as simple as spraying some masking spray into the air with the many products on the market. It needs identifying, it needs extracting and neutralising, and because many of the odours in homes are caused by pets , "usually urine" it needs extensive treatment to the point of lifting the carpet and treating the backing, the underlay and even the wooden floors. the bacteria which causes the odours need to be broken down and eradicated using the correct methods. It is simply not a case of spraying air fresheners.
Pet Urine & Odour Removal
.
Accidents do happen! Urine in carpeting is a severe problem that requires major restoration work, not just simple cleaning and treating. Unfortunately accidents do happen, even the world's best trained pets have the occasional accident. Pets have a habit of urinating in the same general location, making some areas more heavily affected than others
Facts about pet urine in your carpeting: Urine deposited on a carpet does not stay there, it penetrates the fibres and contaminates both the backing of the carpeting and the flooring material below the carpet.
As the urine dries, the liquid evaporates but the urine crystals become even more concentrated and pungent. Simple cleaning will not remove this odour. Urine penetrates the fibres and contaminates both the backing of the carpet and the underlay. Until recently, no product was available that proved effective at removing urine odours.
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